Living Sanibel: Cayo Costa State Park
Unique in all of Florida, Cayo Costa State Park is one of only six of the 160 Florida state parks that are accessible by boat. At that, it is one of only three that offer camping to the maritime visitor, and the only park with permanent cabins available for overnight use.
Located directly across from Gasparilla Island and separated by Boca Grande Pass, this barrier island park is a pristine treasure that has been miraculously spared from the coastal development that has transformed most of the islands along Florida’s coastline into highrises and parking lots.
Unspoiled is the best word to describe what awaits the traveler unloading their picnic or camping gear at the expansive boat docks located on the landward (eastern) side of the island. A walk along the miles of untouched beaches or a stroll or bicycle ride along the 5.5 miles of trails that transect the interior will result in viewing a wide variety of wildlife. The waters that surround the tip of the island abound with manatee, bottle-nosed dolphin, tarpon, sharks and numerous surf fish, including whiting, jack cravelle and snook.
The beaches, being largely untouched, harbor fantastic shelling and sightings that include mole crabs, ghost crabs and birds such as ruddy turnstones, black-bellied plovers and dowitchers. Along the miles of interior hiking trails expect to see warblers (seasonal), osprey and a variety of snakes including eastern coachwhip, the endangered indigo and both yellow and red rat snakes. There are also numerous alligators that thrive in a number of small ponds and a large freshwater lagoon.
The name Cayo Costa translates to Key by the Coast, which in this case should really be Key to a Paradise Lost. The 2,426-acre park has nine miles of white sand beaches without a single home or condominium to be found. The island was a fishing camp for the Caloosa Indians and earlier tribes for 4,000 years before the arrival of the Spanish. In the 1800s Cayo Costa became a favorite haunt for Cuban fishing ranchos where a variety of fish were caught, dried and salted before their return back to the fish markets of Havana.
A walk down Cemetery Trail will take you to the grave of Captain Nelson. His tombstone reads “After Life’s Fitful Fever He Sleeps Well.” Another popular trail is named Quarantine Trail, which brings you to the old quarantine dock where the U.S. military used to inspect fisherman and sailors during the turn of the 20th century for yellow fever and other communicable diseases before allowing them to head on to mainland Florida.
Getting to the park by canoe or kayak is not advisable. Crossing Boca Grande Pass, with its strong currents and winds, can be treacherous and the distance from the launches at Pine Island are problematic. Any small powerboat will suffice and there is a scheduled ferry service called Tropic Star (239) 283-0015 (www.tropicstarcruises. com) that departs from the village of Pineland, located on the northwest side of Pine Island, Florida. For larger parties a private water taxi can also be hired.
Once in the park a truck pulled passenger tram ferries visitors to and from the bay to beach side of the island, which is a mile across. There is a small concession located on the island that offers kayak and bicycle rentals, stocks frozen bait and offers a variety of drinks and snacks. The cabins are basic and rustic, but the demand is such that reservations for staying in them should be made months in advance. Fresh water, ice by the scoop and cold showers are all available in the park.
The park is an ideal place for snorkeling, beach scuba diving, kayaking, hiking, biking, beach coming, fishing, swimming, shelling and picnicking are some of the island’s favorite activities. During the peak season there is an amphitheater where the on-site park rangers present programs on the history, flora and fauna of the park. Care should be taken when visiting during the sea turtle nesting season (May through September) because the remoteness of Cayo Costa make it a prime sea turtle nesting site.
The park suffered a direct hit from Hurricane Charley on Aug. 13, 2004. The winds of that storm toppled virtually every Australian pine on the island and forever changed the look of the campsites and cabin area. Since the storm these areas have all been extensively replanted with native trees but the shade canopy once provided by the invasive trees is gone. Beach umbrellas or small shade tents are well advised since there is little respite from the Florida sun unless you come prepared.
Cayo Costa, while a bit more difficult than most parks to get to, is well worth the effort and affords a window into what the coast of Florida looked like a thousand years ago.
This is an excerpt from The Living Gulf Coast – A Nature Guide to Southwest Florida by Charles Sobczak. The book is available at all the Island bookstores, Baileys, Jerry’s and your favorite online sites.